Mike Stiers over at Maxxsonics has put together another great video for the Car Audio community. Everyone who is thinking of upgrading their stock car audio system to an aftermarket audio system should definitely take a look.
In this video Mike will show you how to prep your car's wiring to handle the upgrade and how to replace your standard car battery with one more suited to the application. In this case, Mike uses the Kinetik KHC1800
A few words from Mike:
So you've decided to upgrade your car stereo system? A great deal of research and planning should go into this purchase since there is a lot to consider. Do you desire a nice upgrade of your factory speakers, are you looking for a Sound Quality overall of speakers, subwoofers and amplifiers, or are you designing a vision-blurring SPL machine? It is important to make a list of exactly what you are looking to replace or add to your audio system so that you can prepare your electrical system for the investment to come.
Many people do not realize that their vehicles factory electrical system was not designed for aftermarket audio equipment. In fact, most factory electrical systems can only handle an audio system of 600 to 1200 watts. The lower end of the scale being the smaller vehicles and most foreign rides, and the upper end being large trucks and sport utility vehicles. As you increase demand, you need to look at upgrading your battery, alternator and most importantly your Big 3.
THE BIG 3
The Big 3 consists of upgrading three wires under the hood of your vehicle. You can completely replace the three wires detailed below, or simply add additional wires to existing factory wires, the choice is yours. The existing factory wires are generally 8 gauge or smaller and are not designed for the high current demands of an aftermarket audio system. It is recommended that you use a nice insulated 0 gauge wire so that you only have to do this series of upgraded once.
The first of the Big 3 is the positive charging wire from your alternator to your battery positive. This wire must be fused within 12 of the positive battery terminal connection. The fuse value should be equivalent to the maximum amperage your wire can handle, which is based on the size and distance of the wire. If you have an upgraded, high output, alternator you will remove your factory alternator charge wire altogether and use the replacement described above.
The second upgrade for the Big 3 is the engine ground to chassis or in some cases, engine ground to battery negative. This is extremely important because this ground is also what ties the alternator ground, through the engine block, to the vehicle chassis. For this step, you want to add your 0 gauge ground to the existing ground. Just clean the area thoroughly and secure the two grounds using the same bolts and locations if possible.
The final upgrade for the Big 3 is the ground wire from battery negative to chassis. If you do not have access to the frame of the vehicle, dont settle for a piece of sheet metal under the hood, but rather locate the strut tower, remove a nut from the thread, sand all paint and debris, connect the 0 gauge ground using a ring terminal on the thread and tighten the nut down. This strut thread has direct access to the vehicle frame and will provide far less resistance than using sheet metal and relying on spot welds. Leave the factory ground in place and clean any dirt, rust or debris from this connection using sandpaper or a stiff wire brush. Through these three steps, you have successfully made huge progress in improving the electrical systems performance, decreased resistance, and enhanced the ability to supply power to your aftermarket audio system.
Kinetik Power Cells
We recently added Kinetik high current, car audio, power cells to our product line up.
Due to low ESR and high energy density, Kinetik HC Power Cells are some of the most powerful, reliable and compact car audio power cells on the market today.
There are quite a few models to choose from there is sure to be one that will fit your needs.
The HC600 (Also known as the Cap Killer) is the entry level model and is more powerful than 100 1 farad Capacitors.
The HC800 is the next step up and delivers more power than 200 1 farad capacitors.
The HC600 and HC800 are mainly used in situations where the OEM battery wont be replaced.
The next set of models are mainly used to replace OEM batteries.
Most powerful cells for Honda or Mitsubishi OE replacement. Thin profile fits many cars. Provides serious current for any demands.
Full size powerhouse. Fits vehicles with larger battery boxes. Capable of powering nearly any system without compromise.
Unstoppable output and high reserve capacity to back it up! More powerful than any other brand of power cell. Fits Chevy or Dodge trucks and many other larger vehicles.
Used in the loudest vehicles in the world and boasting over 180dB when used in competition. This bad boy has more current than power cells twice its size. If you want the BEST, this is it. Providing thousands of amps at near dead short, this power cell performs best when abused.
If you need help figuring out which power cell is right for you, Kinetik has a very good tool along with tons of information about their products.